The rag rug from the Isle of Man, as studied in Chapter 5 is the item for which I will be trying to produce matching colours.
Because my theme is cotton, a natural plant fibre, I chose Option 1 Cold water fibre reactive dyes using Procion dyes. Option 2 Disperse dyes are better used with man made fabrics.
I selected a number of cotton fabrics and yarns and several techniques to colour them.
Following is a list of the selected cotton fabrics and yarns, followed by a list of colouring techniques, accompanied by methods and results of those fabrics that best match the colours in the rug. The final piece is a collage using only the matched coloured fabrics and yarns.
Quantities, methods and results were all recorded in my 'Dye Handbook' alongside Health & Safety requirements
Cotton fabrics used:
- Plain cottons - calico, white cotton, dishcloth, different cotton lace, towels, Broderie Anglais, Empress Mills' lined cotton, scrim, sports wear
- Coloured cottons - embroidered tray cloths, tea towels, Laura Ashley patchwork, kitchen hand towels, handkerchief, jersey, Sanderson prints
- Yarns - 4-ply Twilley's dishcloth cotton; other 2-ply dish cloth cottons, white and off white; ribbon cotton, variegated baby cotton
Colouring techniques in order:
- Composted Calico recipe from Sara Wilson
- Procion dyeing
- Household food ingredients: coffee, gravy browning, tea,
- Shoe polish
- Inks
- Acrylic paints
- Two months ago soaked a length of calico in vinegar
- Covered it in food waste: onion skins, coffee granules, used teabags, potato peelings
- Rolled it up tightly and wrapped it in newspaper
- Buried it 12" deep in a large plant pot (not much alternative ground space in the garden)
- Dug it up 2 months later, carefully unwrapped it and rinsed it twice in warm water. (Didn't dare risk putting it in the washing machine)
- Produced a very fragile fabric especially when still wet, leathery looking, drying paler and slightly stronger. The earthworms had had a field day!
This could be used to match the rug colours, but I see them better used as individual smaller pieces in a series called 'Fragility of the earth' or something!
2. Procion dyeing
'Procion' is one of the trade names for Cold water, fibre reactive dyes.
I used the proportions and mixes as given in Helen Deighan's 'Dyeing in plastic bags' Crossways patch ISBN 0954033302 to prepare samples of appropriate colours.
To do this, you require a selection of dye mixes, salt solution and soda solution, stored in separate sealed and labelled containers.
The mixing dye was 1 heaped tsp of dye to 100 ml of warm water
The salt solution 250 gm salt dissolved in 1 litre of boiled water
The soda solution 200gm washing soda dissolved in 1 litre of boiled water
(These quantities were increased proportionally as more was required)
The dye mixes were placed in plastic bags
Once the dyes, soda and salt are mixed this fixative solution lasts for up to 4 hours, requiring some agitation to ensure the dye is dispersed through the fabric or yarn
I prepared 6 cotton arrangements including yarns to dye, indicated below:
2.1 9 pieces of calico, A4 including one to remain free of dye
2.2 7 strips of non-coloured fabrics were machined together, then cut at right angles to form new strips, one remaining free of dye
2.3 9 pieces of white cotton, A4 including one to remain free of dye
2.4 7 strips of coloured cotton fabrics were machined together, then cut at right angles to form new strips, one remaining free of dye
2.5 8 pieces of fabrics, A4, using both coloured and non-coloured
2.6 8 skeins of cotton yarns, dish cloth cotton and ribbon yarn, including one to remain free of dye
Initially the colours I was trying to make were orange and blue, hoping that mixing the two I would get brown and for some added black.
2.1 and 2.2 I used magenta and lemon yellow in different regulated proportions working towards an appropriate orange.
Calico only: Counting vertically in columns I thought the 6th was most appropriate to match one of the rug colours, so using this same mix in a second bag added 1 tsp black for a brown colour, maybe I should have added 1 tsp of ultra blue. However on doing so with a dry piece of calico both came out green when dry! The dry sample turned out stronger.
Took them from the bags after 1 hour, rinsed in cold, then soapy warm water, then cold again, leaving the fabric strips overnight, before rinsing them and leaving them to dry naturally.
2.3 to 2.6 I used ultra blue to make blue, using different quantities. I was disappointed that there was not such a variation in blues. And when trying to make brown used scarlet and golden yellow.
I had yet to find appropriate dark blue, brown and black fabrics to match the rug colours.
I could have continued mixing and matching using the procion dyes, especially as I had a black dye mix already but thought now was the opportunity to try other colouring techniques.
3. Household food ingredients: coffee, gravy browning, tea,
Using a variety of cotton fabrics, approx. A4 size: cotton lace, dishcloth, towel, cotton calico, plastic wrapping and bubble wrap, useful also for their textures, I prepared dye baths for coffee, gravy browning and tea. All pieces were added to each bath.
Initially 4 tsp or equivalent were added to 2 litres of boiled water.
After half hour cut off a quarter piece from each, laid between cling film, one for coffee, one for gravy browning, one from tea, stacked on top of each other. To strengthen the mix added another 2 tsp extra to each bath.
After another half hour repeated the collection of pieces, adding food dye again to the mix.
Then after an hour repeated the process again, leaving the remainder of fabric with an added food dye, overnight.
The following day all pieces were rinsed, in the three stages, and placed to dry naturally, the last lain flat.
The heavier fabrics all showed more intense colouring: cotton lace, towel and calico
The lighter fabrics more subtle colouring: cotton, dishcloth,
The plastics did pick up a very little colour, the plastic wrapping showing a textured effect with spots of brown running through them, the bubble wrap loosing most of the colour.
The sequence shown above are the last pieces left to dry: coffee, gravy browning and tea.
I feel the coffee produced a softer warmer brown, the gravy browning a darker brown and the tea a colder brown. In each the denser fabrics picked up a darker shade, and all three contribute a different brown required in the rug.
I had four different shoe polishes, black, orangey brown (cold), reddy brown (warm) and grey. Using shoe brushes rubbed each across cotton or calico fabric.
Samples are shown in my 'Dye Handbook'.
Although the colours could be matched to the rug I wont use them, however as all are wax based it will be interesting at a later date to use them as resists.
5. Inks
I used four different inks: black - 'Quink' ink and Kandahar; brown - Winsor & Newton peat brown and Alcohol based rust
Using a sponge I used each ink neat dabbing heavily, then lightly the rubbing across cotton lace, cotton, towel and plastic wrapping.
All could be matched to the rug, but in particular felt the plastic wrapping and towel are good representations of the black and white mottled effect seen on the rug.
6. Acrylic paints
I used four different paints: black - Chroma A2 opaque black & Bondmere black, mixed a brown using Chroma A2 purple with Chroma yellow oxide. I used approximately a tsp of each colour and using a small container of water added enough by dipping the sponge brush in it to mix. I mixed extra when needed.
The fabrics used included cotton, calico, towel and plastic wrapping.
Interestingly the Bondimere black produced a more intense black which could be used as a match for colour on the rug, and the towel and plastic wrapping an alternative to the mottled black and white.
The brown was a warm chocolatey colour which seemed a matching brown for the rug, an alternative to the gravy browning. However on drying not so sure it matched.
All that remains is a dark blue.
For this I will use a coloured fabric in my stash.
Finally here is a collage of fabrics and yarns to show the colours chosen, including some yarns on courses attended (see below)
During the three months working on the dyeing and colour mixing I also had a try at rust dyeing, natural dyeing and early in February Indigo dyeing. The first I did at home, based on instructions at website.
The other two were courses through our branch of The Embroiderers Guild.
In conclusion I'm adding samples from each of these.
Rust dyeing
I'd love to find some bits from machinery based on the cotton industry.
I had to make do with pins and safety pins, washers, spring, nails, keys, screws, a set of old pliers and my Victorian iron.
I used a series of trays.
Pre washed the cotton, calico and towel fabrics to remove any dressings, placed a piece of fabric in each tray, regularly sprayed them with 50/50 vinegar and water to help oxidization, then after at least 24 hours, rinsed them with salt and water solution to stop the rusting process and protect the fabric from future deterioration (see my 'Dye Handbook').
The textured effect on the towel (bottom right) certainly matches the rust on the old Victorian iron (see also Sketchbook 2). This was left for at least 24 hours and is darker than the more orange effect on the cotton above, left only a few hours.
I like this process and would like to learn more.
Natural dyeing yarns course with Judy Hardman (June 2017)
I wanted to go on this course to see how natural plants and some animals could be used to colour yarns. The course was mostly dyeing wool (home spun fleece) and silk, but I was lucky enough to prepare some cotton prior to the course with Judy's help and consequently dye some cotton yarns.
I was introduced to preparing the yarns prior to dyeing, using different mordants based on weight and the different methods of heating and using different plants and some animal (cochineal). Samples of each are in my 'Dye Handbook'. Here are the cotton yarns that I now have for my course:
Indigo dyeing with Kate Whitehead (February 2017)
The indigo vats were prepared by her partner.
We were introduced to preparing fabrics and yarns for use in a woven piece as well as seeing some of her beautiful work. I used various cotton pieces, again relevant to the theme on this course, made our own loom, dyed relevant fabrics, left to dry fortunately on a lovely sunny day, then wove a length of fabric.
I decided to make a length of fabric for a cushion cover, based on 'Time for tea' using tea towels, patchwork pieces, tray cloths and other materials including ribbons with added wording such as 'Cuppa cha', 'Elevenses', scone and Victoria sandwich cake recipes in very faint small print.
Here is it so far, but hope to finish it before long
So I've been getting into colouring fabric.
I have to admit finding it daunting at times, especially trying to record more precisely, what quantities, times, results and matching colours - but I've started my 'Dye handbook' and hope to keep up with this.
This Chapter has taken some time, and that has partly been due to putting off to do tomorrow what could be done today!
